One of the biggest concerns I hear from parents and potential buyers is how to choose:
An instrument that will last
An instrument that is right for ones particular needs
This is an acoustic steel string I made many years ago and still have. It was constructed of mahogany and Sitka Spruce
I hope to take some of the mystery away from buying your first guitar as it's my belief that finding a beginners guitar is fairly easy. Finding that second guitar, or the guitar you are going to play with on a professional basis, is a bit more difficult. It's then you really have to learn about the subtle nuances of tone, projection, and feel. These are very subjective elements and it is helpful to have had the experience of playing other instruments to come up with a choice that is right for you.
THE GOOD NEWS
Well really, it's all good news. The lower priced guitars, mandolins, and banjos of today are far superior to the instruments I began with in the 60's. Then you had to have great concern for the "action" (the height of the strings above the metal frets on the guitar neck fingerboard) as well as strength of construction. We have all seen yard sale guitars whose tops are "bellied" or raised in a convex fashion, whose bridges (where the strings attach to the main body) are pulling off, whose tuning machines don't work, and whose necks are warped and/or separating from the body. Quite often these were old "cheapo's", but I won't name names because there are exceptions to every rule. And every now and then I find an old Sears Silvertone, or Harmony guitar that plays pretty well (Ooops! I just named names).
Check the string height at the "nut" location. It should hold the strings high enough above the 1st fret so there is no "buzz" heard.
If the string height at the fret board around the body joint is too high it can make playing difficult.
So, if the "action" or string height is too high, the instrument will be much more difficult to play. I generally measure the height of the strings where the neck joins the body. A distance of 1/8th to 3/16th" is ideal. Some folks prefer their "action" higher or lower though. It's a matter of personal preference. Acoustic instruments will usually demand higher action than electric guitars. Generally speaking, acoustic guitar strings are also heavier than strings on an electric. This means more pressure on the fingers. If you are just starting as a beginner, you will need to practice and toughen up the ends of your fingers. Please be patient. The classical guitar is a bit different. It uses nylon rather than steel strings. The nylon is a bit easier on your fingers, but the tone of the classical is a bit different than the steel string guitar. It is usually softer and more quiet. The action is sometimes just a tad higher than on the steel string, and the neck is wider. So, if you have very small hands, the classical guitar may be a bit tough. One of the foundations of my site is to show that there are many characteristics to musical instruments, but no absolutes. What is right for you, what feels good for you, is what is important. Today's guitars are made fairly well. Long gone are the days when the Japanese are making bad cheap guitars. They became very skilled. Then, the cheaper instruments came out of Korea and Taiwan. Then they got good, and India, China, and Malaysia took over. The result is that they are all fairly well made. I got in a bunch of Takamine Jasmine guitars recently that are made in Malaysia, and they were constructed very well. Granted, they were all plywood, but hey, what do you expect? The real story here is that they function well, and comparatively speaking, are far superior in action height and playability than the beginning instruments I had when I was a kid. Another positive thing about plywood is that it tends not to crack or split. Instruments made of solid wood, while usually superior in tone, show a higher tendency to do that (i.e. if the wood is not seasoned properly before being used in construction). So, generally speaking, the strength of construction has improved greatly, and the plywood bodies make it a great choice as an instrument to take on the road, picnic, or the cookout. Plywood can take more punishment.
The slot opening displaying the end of the truss rod that can be adjusted.
This shows the truss rod slot that runs through the inside of the neck
THE TRUSS ROD
Another improvement in the newer cheap guitars is the functionality of the "truss rod". This is a metal rod running inside the length of the guitar neck (usually about 1/2" below the fret board) to counter the "pull" of all those strings. The "pull" of the strings can create a "forward bow". If you tighten the truss rod, it creates a counter pull theoretically reducing any warping. The easiest (yet not necessarily the most accurate way) of seeing if a neck has a "forward bow", is to sight down the neck like you would a rifle. If it looks flat, or has just a slight amount of pull, chances are you are OK.
Note that the classical guitar, utilizing nylon strings, does not traditionally use a truss rod so don't worry about your future classical friend not having one. There is usually less string pull or tension on a nylon stringed guitar. And the neck is usually bigger having more mass and strength.
Some guitar necks are actually made of a sandwich of woods glued together. The photo on the right is an example. This sandwich effect makes the neck stronger. Other evidence of a "bowed neck" is if the action - or the string height (the distance between the string and the 12th fret) is high; making it difficult to press the strings and play.
I used to tear my hair out when repairing the earlier cheap instruments because many of the truss rods did not work. My only choice was to toss the instrument, or remove the frets, flatten the fret board, and reinstall the frets. The labor could exceed the price of the guitar. Occasionally I can fix a warped neck by using a heated "neck stretcher" but that is a story for a deeper look into the guitar.
A Zebra wood electric with brainy fancy electronics and a photo of Meher Baba inlaid with Ebony and Abalone.
DUDE, LOOK AT THAT PAINT JOB; THERE'S OZZIES FACE UNDER THE BRIDGE!
One battle a parent will have when buying a guitar for their son or daughter, is the cosmetic aspect. Most professional musicians I know don't really care what the instrument looks like. Well, maybe that's going too far, but I do know that the emphasis is on playability and sound; the two most important features in the relationship between man and musician. Many kids are going to be attracted to that fancy glittery thing shaped like hangman's Ax. Well, here again, the news isn't that bad. Most of these instruments are fairly well constructed as well, and should provide a structurally integrated start. If you are shopping for an electric guitar, you might want to ask the store owner about the strength of the metal hardware like the bridge and "vibrato arm". Even today, they are sometimes made of weakened pot metal and can break. But, this is becoming more rare.
The down side about fledgling musicians focusing on looks, is that they may exclude a really great instrument available at a decent price because of a few "dings". I really don't know what to say about this dilemma, I had to have a Madras belt when I was 13. Maybe you can show them a photo of Stevie Ray Vaughn's Strat. It was definitely ridden hard, but very road worthy!! On my third album A VIEW FROM THE PLAIN (acoustic-oriented fingerstyle guitar) I made extensive use of an old Regal guitar I bought for $30.00 at a flea market. Once I re-glued the back to the sides, it made a great slide guitar. Matter of fact, all the slide guitar work on that album was done with the little Regal.
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